What's in a name?

In a word, everything. The name of the game is branding. A name is the first impression a company has with a potential costumer, buyer, reader, etc., so it should be something that helps convey the product while being professional and perhaps a bit clever.

    In our case, with Shore Life Florida, we hope to convey the message of the beach life and living the shore lifestyle; wherever water meets land in SoFlo, we hope to be there, showing the reader what makes this such a great place to live. With nearly 1,200 miles of shoreline (2,276 tidal shore and 663 miles of beaches), the Sunshine State is the most 'coastal' state in the lower 48, helping propel it as a the number one travel destination in the world (a record 76.8 million people visited the state in 2004). We believe Shore Life Florida is a succinct name for what we are trying to channel, so the next step is logo.

    When creating a logo for a brand, it should not be done haphazardly or half-cracked; this is, for the most part, the first thing people will notice of a company, and first impressions are key. For our logo we called on the dynamic duo at Rainy Sun Design, the same tandem working on the website design (more on that soon!) to come up with something that not only represents what we are attempting to do here at Shore Life, but represents the lifestyle as a whole. Founder and art director Jorge Marquez went about the design of the logo with a few factors in mind: It needs to be original; works with different media ( web, print, objects, and in different sizes); it needs to make an impression; and It's all about detail.

    The logo Jorge and Rainy Sun Design created takes on a vintage, late 70s, early 80s vibe; fluid and laid back. For a lot of people, Florida is nothing but stucco Mediterranean-esque strip malls and marbled accented grandeur. But for some, SoFlo is a laid back beach scene that has changed little from those early days in the 50s when Burt Reynolds was chucking footballs in Juno Beach and Double Roads was actually double roads. Shore Life aims to captures that sunshine vibe of no shoes, no shirt, no problem.  

    Jorge took this theme into consideration when coming up with the design: "To me, Shore Life means freedom, it is liberating and casual, full of life and a little bit of an adventure. I wanted the logo to mirror that, to show the fun, make it a little vintage and still show the life that the Shore Life can bring."

    The beauty of the design is that it uses clean lines to create a fresh, simple look, but is heavily detailed, giving the logo texture and an added dimension. "I wanted to create organic shapes for the design, so I started with the way an octopus moves, the way they look when they cross their arms," says Jorge. The logo embodies the round, swooping and curling motions of an octopus, intertwined and free flowing. "I didn't want straight corners, which are sharp, so I used subtle curved corners."

    In the end, Shore Life is a love letter to Florida and we hope that comes through in the logo and design. We grew up here, have seen the community take shape into the slice of paradise it has become (and swayed). South Florida is what drives this site, the landscape, seascape and the activities, so let us know what you think, keep us honest, and as always, enjoy the Shore Life!

Coffee Table Using an Old Surfboard and Bamboo

Coffee table using an old, busted surfboard and a few pieces of bamboo.

   Surfing is a great sport, becoming an outlet for stress, getting one in touch with nature and is a great workout. But, if you are like me and like to surf but are not very good, you have discovered how delicate a surfboard can be and have a garage full of busted, beat and broken boards. This leaves one with two options: toss'em, or get crafty and use them in some sort of art project. Here, I will show you how to make a simple coffee table using an old busted board, some bamboo and some machine screws.

For this table there is just a short list of components and tools needed:

Tools: drill, hacksaw or Japanese handsaw (Ryoba), drill bit (size for screw), screw driver, ratchet with socket (or adjustable wrench, whatever's handy), tape measure and level (if you're feeling froggy--the nice thing about the Shore Life is things are supposed to be relaxed and laid back, so a table that is not exactly plumb won't be a deal breaker).

Components for the table: surfboard, bamboo and some simple hardware.

Parts: surfboard (you'll want something intact, preferably without fins, and short-board is best, unless you want a monster buffet table), bamboo (4x22", 4x21", 2x72", 2x52", 2x18"), jute or sisal twine, 20 stainless steel (no rust) machine screws, washers and locking nuts (sizes will depend based on the diameter of the bamboo you are using. I used 2" and 3" screws, 10-32 size/thread, size 8 washers and lock nuts.

The Process
   The design for the table is simple, just a few sticks of bamboo securing the board. The board I used was a 6' Byrne with 19" middle, making the table, at its widest, 21", and stands 22" tall.

The leg setup with dimensions.

   I started building the leg setups first. The legs, 22" in length, will extend beyond the top of the board. I first attached the 18" bottom cross support, 4" from the base. I made a 15" spacing between the two legs. Once marking where the support should sit I drilled through both the support and leg together, thus ensuring the screw goes through easily (if you simply measure and drill the holes, they may not line up properly and make it difficult to pass the screw through). I then attached the bottom support, facing out, with 3" machine screws (the legs and supports were the thickest pieces of bamboo, so they needed the larger screws). Repeat with the other set of legs.

    I then affixed the support where the board will sit. I set these supports 16" high from the ground. For this support, I used a 21" piece of bamboo. I made the distance between the legs a bit larger at this support, 17" between, to accommodate for the board width (there will still be space between the legs and board). Once marked, drill like the previous support, though I attached this support facing toward the inside. (If the rocker is severe on the board you may want to drop the support an inch where the nose will sit to 15”).

Crossbeams on stabilize the table.

   Once both sets of legs have the supports securely attached, it is time to determine the distance between the two. I wanted the space between the two sets of legs to be about four-feet (letting the board extend by a foot on each end). To do so, I took two 52" pieces of bamboo and secured them to the bottom supports of the legs, alternating to the opposite leg, creating an ‘X’ on the inside of the table legs, alternating one end atop of the support, the other on the bottom. This will allow the beams to cross without getting in the others way. Secure with a machine screw at each end.

   Once these cross-sections are in, the table takes form, being able to stand on its own, though not fully secure. The table is secure in one direction but wants to collapse in the other. To keep the table from collapsing, I thatched the joints with some natural twine. Take some twine and wrap, affixing the leg to the crossbeam and support securely.

Thatching secures the joints.

   Now it is time to place the surfboard on the table. First clean it, getting any old wax off, then fit the board on the supports upside down (you can fit right side up if you wish), finding the proper placement. Now take the last two 21" supports and secure them atop of the board to the legs, facing out. I fit my mine snugly so the board would not move freely.

   Using bamboo, a knotty, bent wood, things won't be exactly even and plumb. So to remedy this and even things up a bit, I took two 70" pieces of bamboo to square the legs. Running them along the board, atop the crossbeam that supports the board, I secured the bamboo to the legs, forcing the legs to square up.

The finished product. Enjoy the Shore Life!

   The table is lightweight and perfect for the patio, porch or lanai. Careful not to overload the table or it could wrack. Good luck and write back if you have any questions. This is just a simple version I slapped together in a few hours; variations abound, so experiment and make it your own version of the Shore Life.

Up next: an Adirondack chair using a busted surfboard.

Functional and cool surfboard rack

Simple bamboo surfboard rack

    Surfing has become a natural part of the South Florida landscape. Whether strapped atop car roofs, carried around the beach, acting as kitsch decor at high-dollar weddings and Palm Beach soirees, even adorning walls of beachy-themed restaurants and bars as a means of menu specials; simply put, surfing has infiltrated SoFlo's popular culture. And if you are like me and have been swept up in the free spirited dance on water, where swells dictate weekend plans, large infusions of income go toward surf trips and equipment, and the simple act of paddling takes on therapeutic qualities, then your quiver of boards has grown to incorporate all types of swells. Instead of relegating the boards to the garage, where they are subjected to all kinds of dings, bumps and dust, I prefer to keep my boards indoors in a safe and temperature controlled environment (surfing is an expensive hobby, I consider my boards an investment). But like many starting out in their young professional life, space is limited indoors, so incorporating my boards in a way that is versatile, visually stimulating and inexpensive became a personal mission.

Surfboard rack components

   What I came up with were simple bamboo racks that are minimalist and pretty cool looking that get the boards off the ground, incorporating them into the décor of the space while still being functional. Costing less then $10, each rack was built to size for each board using only three pieces of bamboo, inexpensive four-hole corner braces, a few screws and picture frame nails, and some hemp twine. For this example I'll use the rack I built for my 6'4" short board (and give the dimensions for my 9’2” longboard rack too). For bamboo, I harvested some from a neighbor who wanted to trim back their thicket. If buying bamboo, do not over pay; bamboo is a grass, it grows like a weed and needs to be harvested often to make for a manageable landscape feature. So if you can't harvest it yourself, checkout a local nursery, they usually have some harvested pieces for sale.

   I chose a 5' piece for the main crossbeam feature (8’ for the longboard), relatively thin but still had some meat to it, that way the board extended a few inches each side.

   For the main support of the rack, the points of contact for the board, I used two thicker pieces bamboo that came from the base of harvested pieces (about 1 3/8" to 1 1/2" in diameter), roughly 10" long. You can use the same piece of bamboo, as long as there are three segments, with three inches extending beyond the end segments. If doing this, the two support sections will differ in diameter, but minimally, about 1/8" to 1/4".

Bracket affixed to wall

   When cutting the supports, I took two pieces of bamboo with two segments and a few inches beyond both directions, one for each support. I first cut an inch past one segment (the narrower end). This will be the piece that faces out so you'll want to make sure to cut cleanly and do not fray the bamboo. I then measured 10” from this fresh cut and marked it. Once ensuring this part is a hollow segment, cut. This will be where the corner brace is inserted.

   Depending on how thick the walls of the bamboo are will determine how difficult a time you will have inserting the corner braces. If the walls are thick, the corner braces will have to be hammered into the bamboo. Center the corner brace in the bamboo right atop the opening. Hopefully there will only be a few millimeters of bamboo the corner brace needs to pass through. Holding the bamboo on end with the corner brace end facing up, hammer away until the angle of the corner brace fits flush with the bamboo. It may take a bit, but try not to bend the brace less than the 90 degrees. (If the bamboo walls are thin, as will probably be the case for a longboard rack, the bamboo will have a large opening and the corner brace will fit loosely, so you will need to secure the bamboo to the corner braces with screws, but this is done best once the corner braces are secured to the wall.)

   Once the corner braces are secure within the bamboo, it is time to secure the brackets to the wall. Find a height that suits your needs--the top of the brackets are essentially where the base of the board sits. Once the height is determined, affix the brackets. For the 6'4" board I spaced them 4' apart, giving the 5' bamboo section a few inches on each side (for the 9'2" longboard I spaced the brackets 6'--with an 84" cross section). Once the brackets are secure, push up on the bamboo so it extends the corner braces to roughly a 110-degree angel.

Small nail to secure crossbeam in place.

   If the bamboo still needs to be affixed to the corner brace, push up on the braces to 110-degrees. Measure from the wall to the two holes. Mark those measurements on the bamboo and drill two holes. Place the bamboo back on the brace and insert two nails or screws long enough so that they will not fall out. The weight of the surfboard and the nails will keep the bamboo from pulling out.

Crossbeam and support secured.

   Now that the bamboo is affixed to the wall, it is time to attach the crossbeam. This is for support, keeping the board from slipping out at the base and for aesthetics. To attach the crossbeam, I took a small nail, about an inch long and very narrow in diameter. Drill a very small divot into the bamboo attached to the bracket where you want the thatching to happen. For mine, I went 1 1/2" in from the end, just before the segment (for the longboard I went 2" in, just after the segment). Take the same drill bit and drill a hole 6" from each end of the crossbeam through both walls (I went 12" in from the ends on the longboard rack). Insert the nail and place the crossbeams onto the nails. This should give a loose hold. Now wrap the hemp twine over and over, securing the crossbeam to the bamboo supports. To cover the brackets on the wall, spilt a 3” to 4" segment of bamboo in half lengthwise and glue onto the exposed corner brace. 

   Now, simply place the board onto the rack, fins out, evenly on the two bamboo supports and lean against the wall. The crossbeam will keep the board from falling off. The rack will give a little, so do not overload; the weight of one board is a perfect fit.

The finished product. Simple, easy, distinctively Shore Life.